Tuesday, August 25, 2015

Two down... Lord knows how many to go

I'm a pretty handy guy, as you might assume from my nom de guerre.  I suppose you could say that what I lack in capability I make up for in inexperience.  I'm willing to try 'most anything, especially if I can buy a tool as part of the project.

Faced with the daunting tasks ahead of me with my "new" Safari, I decided to tackle two fairly straightforward projects so I could build some confidence.

The first was simply to replace the original manual tongue jack used to lift the trailer off the tow vehicle ball.  Technically it worked but it required a good bit of effort and the Marvel coupler is finicky so it has to be held while you lift the jack.

The nice thing about a small-to-midsize Airstream like the Safari is the tongue weight is under 500 lbs.  It's very easy to find a capable electric jack to run off the trailer's 12V system.  Exactly how many seasons it will hold up remains to be seen.

The original jack was held on with three bolts screwed directly into the Marvel coupler and an A-frame support plate.  It took a bit of effort but I eventually broke it loose.

Reinstalling the new jack was just as easy, although I had to wire in the 12V lead into the battery so I could power the unit.  While I was at it, I decided to cut away the old rusted safety chains and install new 5,000b rated cables.  The new set up looks great.



I was pretty pleased with myself.  This Airstream stuff was going to be a piece of cake... or so I thought.

Then I realized the lights inside the trailer wouldn't work. What the %&*#?  How could one little 10 gauge wire screw up the lights inside the trailer?

Did I trip the 30 amp breaker on the battery terminal?  No.  Hmmm.  Time for a crash course in 1961 Airstream wiring.

This era of models had a two-wire 110-120V shore power system along with a one-wire 12V system  The ground for the 12V system is the trailer frame and anything metal connected to it - like the shell.

The PO told me that there were two wiring bundles in the front bulkhead under the dinette table.  The one on the curbside was for the trailer tow wiring harness / cable.  The one on the street-side was the "main".  Someday I will take out the inside of the trailer, redo the floors and rewire everything the way I want it.


A little poking around with my electrical multi-meter revealed that I didn't have a good ground.  Then I realized that one of the bolts on the safety chains must have been my main ground wire for the system.  I found the severed wire and reconnected it to the new bolts I installed and everything came to life... including my new tongue jack.

My second project was a little more daunting, because if I screwed it up it would cost me dearly.

This model Airstream has an "astradome" or a long rectangular skylight that lets light in and lifts up to allow air (and bugs) in.   The astradome in my trailer was cracked and "old".  I don't know if it was original but it was definitely in need of replacement.  Not only did it look like crap, it also leaked water when it rained.

The PO had purchased a replacement and all I needed was to install it.  However, that meant I needed to find a way to repair the lifters, seal the dome when seated and attach the cover to the lifters in the exactly the right spot.  The "daunting" part was the plastic dome costs $150 - so I only had one shot to get it right.

One of the lifters for the dome worked fairly well but the other one was shot.  Fortunately the PO left me the old roof vents that used the same lifters so I was able to scavenge one to use for the other side.  It took some time but I got them both cleaned up and working smoothly.

Originally the vent was secured to the lifters with rivets but I decided to use stainless steel bolts with lock nuts.  After measuring three or four times, I drilled the six holes into the Lexan cover and from then on I was "committed".

It turned out great.  A long strip of 5/8" thick weather stripping fills the gap between the cover and the opening.



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